Wednesday, January 27, 2010

The Waitaki Valley and Akaroa


After leaving Milford Sound, we headed through the countryside towards the East of the island, in the direction of Christchurch. The landscape continued to be beautiful, with clouds hugging the edges of the mountains, and at one stage the mountain peak shining in blue sky, with the rest veiled in mist.

Suddenly the scenery transformed into the huge and almost moon/desert looking Waitaki valley. Nicki took a couple of stunning pictures of the more barren hills and rougher fields, as we realised we have seen more variation of countryside in New Zealand than anywhere in the world. You drive through endless greenery and without concentrating you find yourself in what feels like a different country. It's an amazing experience.

That evening we stayed at a holiday park in a pretty little painted shed - big enough for a double bed and a little desk, communal showers and toilets nearby, 45 NZ Dollars (22GBP/24Euros). We don't know anywhere at home to stay for that price.
We wonder if we are ever going to meet a miserable and unfriendly person here. We just haven't found any - people have been happy, always saying hello, always asking about your travels, where you've come from, how you've enjoyed your time in New Zealand and giving recommendations for places to go. Bus drivers, petrol pump attendants and hotel owners have stunned us with their positive attitude.

The following day we headed on to Akaroa on the Banks peninsula. We stopped a few km away at a place called Duvauchelle, and we had noticed a number of French-sounding hotels and villages along the way. It turns out that the town was settled in the mid 1800's by a Frenchman who advertised free passage back in France to people who would come and take land to develop it. All through the beautiful little place by the water, you see places like "La Rochelle" motel and the "Bon-e-mail" Internet cafe. Strange to see this so far away from France!

On Monday we took the Skyline Walk, described in the leaflet as a trek requiring "moderate fitness". We've been caught out like this before - a New Zealand "moderate" is our idea of "high level of". The walk was quite uphill for a while, then really uphill, then bushy with grass at head-height uphill. Listening to Nicki's curses and noises, plus her moment of telling herself "just get through the bloody thing!" helped me get through too... She is always the pathfinder and never more so than now - it was hard! But after a few sweary moments when attacked by cacti near the summit, we were rewarded by stunning views of the bay when we reached the top, after 2 hours of solid slog. The rest of the journey was along and back down to the town along "The Stony Bay Road", a road with a lot of stones, and, well, a view of the bay...
There's a few days to go in New Zealand and we are now in Christchurch for a small fix of "busy"- the first time we've been to a city since Auckland - before we head back to the North Island for the last part of this leg of the trip.