Sunday, January 10, 2010

Dolphins and Lakes in NZ

Before we came to New Zealand, anybody who ever went there gave absolutely rave comments on the country, and we can easily see why. It is the the place we love most so far on this trip.

It baffles us how the country has managed to create such a comfortable and high quality life and not be overwhelmed with people. Paihia in the Bay of Islands is a tourist centre, yet the front and beach are beautiful. There are no skyscrapers, just nicely designed and built motels. It seems New Zealanders are very self-sufficient when it comes to eating on holiday and there are lots of self-contained unit-type accommodation, including kitchenettes with all materials for cooking. As a result, restaurants are quite limited and don't dominate the bay area at all. Simple things like free parking are a surprise for us both.

What really surprises us is that it is peak holiday season here. New Zealand children are on holiday so we expected it to be busy. I think the concept of “busy” is just different here – we've felt completely relaxed, never hurried and not at all crowded.

The beauty of the scenery was extended into the island area when we went on a dolphin-viewing trip. The water is a lovely blue, and we quickly came upon a small family of dolphins (they had promised free return tickets if we didn't spy any at all.) The guide explained that over 50% of these clever mammals who are taken into captivity die within 4-6 weeks. The reason, apparently, is that swimming in a limited area gives no stimulation for their sizeable brains and results in them losing the will to live – heartbreaking.

Afterwards, we headed around various islands. We realised the special thing about the coastline and the islands is the combination of green grass and trees and absolutely blue water. We expect that kind of water colour in the Mediterranean, together with a more rough and arid coastline. To see lush greenery in direct contrast with such a water colour is a real treat.

Onward to “The Hole In The Rock”. We had picked up a New Zealand book in Auckland and after opening it on a random page. Nicki had pointed to a gorgeous place and said “I want to go there”. This was indeed the eroded space through a rock-island which we were now heading through.

The people we have met from New Zealand all seem incredibly nice. We are sure this is not the case for all 4 million people, but it is incredible that people smile, they will happily talk to you as soon as you start a random conversation, and in general people seem very content. I was running along a footpath yesterday and a guy happily said “g'd morning – bit too bloody fit for me, mate!” (if only he knew the real truth...)

We drove to Taupo on Friday, a 500km drive through the North Island, giving us views of endless beautiful countryside. Our car is funny. We hired for the cheapest price possible and we have nicknamed it Dumpy, as it struggles up hills but gets us there finally. We are in the hands of our navigation system which we nicknamed Libby (short for “Liberty” - because we felt she gives us freedom to enjoy the ride.) Every now and again she gets it wrong, but generally it works well and we can always shut her off if she gets too directive...

Lake Taupo is 600km square and the crater of a huge, extinct volcano – apparently there is documentary evidence that one of the eruptions in the 181AD was seen worldwide, as it was double the size of the eruption of Vesuvius. The town itself was remote until the early 20th century and now is a backpacker town with so much going on. You can walk, para-sail, bungy jump, skydive, and even Zorb – a great big inflatable ball which you strap yourself inside and get rolled down a hill while you try to hold your lunch down.

Our hostel is excellent and has all facilities (which now for us means good shower and bathroom, comfortable bed, laundry facilities and a kitchen.) However, it was hilarious as the bar across the road had an open air stage and the band started just as we settled down for bed, around 10pm. It went on til 3am – it was incredibly LOUD! We could almost not hear each other talk in our own room. Nicki resorted to ear-plugs at around 1:30am, which miraculously worked. The worst part was that the band was really good, playing great song after great song, but we were just too tired to go and join the party. We brace ourselves for tonight's onslaught. My age is getting to me...

The walk we did today was just fantastic. We saw another stunning river with the cleanest water, plus countryside all the way that mixes familiar trees with the palm-type trees that remind of the tropical nature of the climate. We also saw a lot of locals swimming in the Thermal streams that ran into the river – we felt the water and it was really hot, even hotter than I would ever run a bath! All the people we saw were cycling, swimming, bungy jumping – it's becoming so clear that the standard life here in New Zealand is outside and active.

At the end of it, an amazing rush of water burst through a narrow area in the rock, the Huka Falls. All along, new met friendly people and saw gorgeous countryside, which it seems is going to be how it is for the rest of our time in New Zealand.