
First impressions of Australia and Sydney are a bit mixed. Probably the “mixed” part came a lot from our choice of where we stayed for the first night, a backpacker hostel in the centre of the city. You paid for towels, took your sheets from reception to cover

The city itself has a nice vibe. It is more of a “real” city than we found anywhere in New Zealand, with older buildings and busy shopping areas rubbing shoulders with business and hotels, plus the whole Australian “no worries” attitude. People dress very casually despite the business going on (although seeing people in a suit is a real surprise – we are so often in traveller environments where shorts and sandals are the standard) and the conversations you have and overhear are peppered with “how ya goin, mate?”, “sweet as,”and the all-purpose “awesome”.
We headed for the harbour in The Rocks district

We took the ferry across the harbour to Manly where Nicki's

Wayne and Nathalie had travelled for a year in a camper van and spent some months in Australia. They enjoyed it so much, they decided to come back here when they had the chance, and they live a two-minuet walk from an amazing beach with huge rollers bursting in (I loved the signs all over the beach saying “beach closed – dangerous surf”, ignored by the obsessive surfers we saw in the distance). We had barbecue on the balcony of their lovely apartment, and with a 7km journey to work plus the sun and sea, life seems good for both of them.
Equally, they have adapted to the less positive aspects of life here. They showed us a movie clip on their iPhone of a huge Huntsman spider – wider than the circumference of a pint glass – on their living room wall. As we went to bed, Nathalie noticed I had put my shoes outside (to

As we made our way back to the city, we met a woman from Los Angeles on the bus. She mentioned that her biggest worry about sleeping with the doors open is “waking up with a possum sitting at the end of the bed”. They are beautiful little things but the possum population has exploded and they are considered a pest here, apparently swarming over inhabited areas in search of food with no hesitation in going through people's kitchens if given half a chance.
Finding a place to stay has been a challenge as the city is booked to the gills, thanks to the Gay Mardi Gras starting this weekend. We spent an hour looking through every affordable hostel and hotel we could find and finally landed at a Formule 1 outside the city – positive luxury in comparison with our last place and a good base from which to launch this part of the journey.
