Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Rewards on Day 4 of the Inca Trail

Finally, we were rewarded for our efforts in the first 3 days of regular rain. The sun came out on the crucial morning, when we went to see the sacred site of Macchu Picchu.

We awoke at 3:45, and after yet another fantastic breakfast, we set off on the last hike towards our destination. A clear day was all we had hoped for and we got it - thank goodness! The 2 hour trek from the camp to the site was slowed when we faced the eiger-like Inca stairs after an hour or so. This was as steep as anywhere on the whole 4 days - agony for our tired limbs, but we ploughed ever upwards. Certainly this was a continuous test of will to reach the goal. Once again, the group of people gave each other encouragement to keep going.
Suddenly we got our first view of Macchu Picchu in the distance and it was stunning. It made the whole trek, with all the trials of weather, altitude and long grinding uphill walking, absolutely worthwhile.

After the final descent down into the actual site, I realised how it was a masterpiece of preservation and openness. It is amazing how well-kept the walls, ruins and terraces are and an absolute privelege to be able to walk through the ruins.
The story is that this site was never discovered by the Spanish. When they came and conmquered in 1533, the Incas showed them many things but kept Macchu Picchu (meaning "Old Peak") hidden away. An American called Hiram Bingham discovered it in 1911. He had been told to look in this area by a local and found 3 farmers living on the land. He set off back to America to get sponsorship for excavation and renovation of the site, and got it from, among others, Yale University. National Geographic devoted an entire issue to the place in 1913, and its fame has been growing ever since.
Many treasures and artifacts were discovered by Bingham and his workers in the coming years. However, due to the sponsorship from Yale, all the artifacts were taken back to the USA and are on display there. Around 6-7 years ago, an agreement was made with George W Bush to return these items back to Peru, but Yale stepped in, claiming the investment they made in the first place was the reason Macchu Picchu is famous at all. It is a sad situation and is an ongoing discussion between Peru and USA.
We took group photos and had a 2 hour explanation from Percy about various aspects of the site. One thing that sticks in my mind is that probably there were a million people at work to build the site over a 30-year period. (To read more about Macchu Picchu, click here.) The strange thing about the Inca civilisation is that they developed no written language, so the knowledge about their times and especially Macchu Picchu are often assumptions and speculation. This makes it an even more fascinating time and people to explore further.
Finally, our bodies gave out. It is amazing how psychological physical capability is - as soon as we knew the trek was over, even walking up 20 steps became almost impossible. We were utterly exhasuted by the trials of the last few days, but we had all made it over the summits and down the descents. After a thorough view of the site, we headed into the nearby town, Aguas Calientes, for lunch. The afternoon was whiled away as the rain poured down with beer, jokes and card games and finally we took the train home, during which Nicki talked for an hour in Spanish to two Argentinian tourists - very impressive.
It was an amazing experience - great people, fantastic service from the porters and our guide, amazing hard work on the trek and a sunshine filled goal of the glorious Macchu Picchu.