Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Wine Country Walking and Coastal Highway Driving

(halfway through this blog, pictures stopped uploading. More pics on Facebook, email me if you are not a member of facebook and I can send you the link to the pics.)
With just 3 full days left in USA, we awoke again to stunning sunshine and set off for a walk through Sonoma valley in California's wine country (Napa is more famous, but our bible “Lonely Planet” book said “if you only have time to visit one, visit Sonoma”). Again, we found people so friendly – every time we have asked directions, people asked us where we are from, how we like California and what our next plans are. I don't remember that happening much in our own countries.

Walking in the valley, we headed towards the hills and found ourselves surrounded by vineyards turning a beautiful, unexpected auburn. I had no idea that vines would change colour in Autumn.
The strongest impression I've had of this part of the world is how pretty and ordered it is. The people are happy and calm, in no hurry, they live in a place where the weather is great (20 degrees plus in mid-November?), houses are lovely, and there's space and time. I can imagine it's a great place to live if you are a placid and even-tempered person (and rich). For me, what's missing is the contrast – there seems no “edge”, no rough side to make you appreciate living in such a place. I would become complacent living here. Only one thing gave us a different view – the sign warning “Absolutely NO Trespassing. Violators will be shot.”...

The following day, we headed out towards the Pacific Coastal Highway, driving along the coast from Santa Cruz towards Los Angeles. Blue sky all the way, easy open road, and we stopped at lovely villages by the sea. Especially Capitola was cute with multicoloured little cottages by the beach, and from its pier we saw a sea-otter floating on its back and chomping away at a starfish.

Heading South and stopping off in Monterey, we drove up a slope on the highway and viewed a different world ahead. The green hills and mountains of the Los Padres National Forest stretched out in front of us and we spent 3 hours driving with endless stunning views of cliffs and sea on one side and beautiful landscape on the other. It's a famous drive for good reason, and seeing the Autumn sun setting across the views was incredible.

As soon as it got dark, we stopped at the Gorda Springs motel, with a view over the ocean. No phone signal, let alone Internet connection – a remote spot indeed. The next morning started with a great run along the warm coast and we later sat on a picnic blanket on the cliff, looking out to the deep ocean, reflecting on how lucky we've been to enjoy this time in America.

As we carried along the coast, the scenery in bright sunlight was again incredible. We'd been advised to look out for the Elephant Seal viewing spot and it was amazing to see over a 100 hulking, content-looking animals wallowing and lazing around in the sand.

Another amazing sight was the birds of prey in the trees – sunbathing. Yes, they were really sunbathing, spreading their wings out and facing the sun.

We hammered on down the highway, windows open, Rolling Stones blaring, Nicki with a Thelma-and-Louise-like headscarf arrangement to keep her hair in place. Arriving at Santa Barbara, a quaint little place with a long beach and happy people wandering around, once again the orderliness and simple, happy lifestyle struck us. Even the parking charge was an “honor payment system” – you noted your lot-number and stuffed 3 folded dollar bills into a quaint old panel with numbered slots.

And then the contrast...

Finally we reached our hostel at Venice Beach, a few miles outside of Los Angeles. Wow! Lonely Planet says “If aliens landed on Venice Beach's board-walk, they would fit right into the Human Zoo that is Venice beach.” The place is just mad. Street performers, tattoo parlours, smoke shops, stalls selling way-out art, a beggar with a sign saying “beer $ wanted”, a skateboard park on the beach with hair-raising stunts being done by fearless kids. As we walked along wide-eyed, we heard a drum beat coming from a big crowd in the middle of the beach. We approached it and found around 100 people either banging bongos and drums or dancing to the beat. The aroma of pot was strong! It was an absolutely buzzing atmosphere. What a find.

We carried on to a restaurant and were assailed by a guy with dreadlocks explaining how “America is a 200 year old experiment” and telling tales of meditating on Acid opposite the Dakota building in Central Park (John Lennon's last home). As his stories became more convoluted and harder to follow, we realised that he was an unusual, drug-addled and unique character. We toasted with him to loving life and enjoying the moment, and headed back towards our hostel...

On the way back we met young drunks wielding bottles of tequila, shouting “this is our time, man” and passed an Asian girl playing a guitar and singing as we walked on. There was not a “normal” person on the board-walk. I loved every minute of it.

It was a welcome end to our 3-week stay in USA. It's been a fantastic way to start the journey, to learn more about America as a continent and not just as a country by seeing so many aspects. The calm of Maine, the bustle and sky-scrapers of Manhattan, the neighbourhood feel of Greenwich Village and San Francisco, the peace and beauty of the Wine country, and the ocean at Cape Cod and the West Coast – all brought into stark contrast again by the madness of Venice Beach.

And now we turn our thoughts on to Peru, our 2nd country and 2nd continent. We know it will be incredibly different to USA, but then we are feeding from the additional light that contrast brings to each new experience.